This is the third and final part of our recent vacation to Asia. I hope you have enjoyed reading the first two parts, Malaysian Food Journal and Taste of Singapore. We visited many, many places, walked thousands of steps, and ate lots and lots of good food. Now, on to our next destination…..
From Singapore, we took the evening flight out of Changi and arrived seven hours later at Narita, Tokyo. It was early morning and we caught the train to Shinjuku where we stayed the night. After depositing our luggage at the hotel, we went to the closest soba shop for a steaming bowl of kitsune udon (“fox” udon, these animal references are popular nicknames). This udon is served hot in a mild broth of dashi and shōyu topped with sweetened abura-age (deep fried tofu pocket). Spiced with shichimi tōgarashi (seven spiced chili pepper), it was the perfect antidote for a long flight.
After some shopping at Akihabara, Tokyo’s Electric Town, we were ready to have some dinner and return to the hotel to recharge. We had a three-hour bus journey to take early the next morning. Breakfast was quick with onigiri (rice cakes) from the AMPM store just round the corner from the hotel. Downed with some green tea, it was quick but satisfying.
The bus ride took us through the countryside, past Lake Suwa, and into the mountains. We could see the majestic Japan Minami Alps looming in front of us with its snow capped peaks. The countryside looked very charming with its neat vegetable plots, fruit orchards, and rice fields.
After two hours on the bus, we stopped at Futaba for refreshments. There were stores and stands selling snacks, fruits, and vegetables. The nashi (Japanese pears) were very fragrant and delicious and the Aomori apples were huge, crunchy, and sweet. There were also peaches, apricots, and cherries.
We arrived at our destination late morning in Komagane. It was a bright and beautiful day with clear, blue skies. The weather was definitely cooler and less humid here. In fact, it was really pleasant, peaceful, and quiet. We were far away from the city.
For lunch, we went to a quaint little restaurant, Kozenji Soba, well known for their soba (buckwheat noodles) made fresh at the store. I had their soba sampler which came with hiyashi yamakake soba (cold grated mountain yam soba), another cold soba with vegetable tempura, and a hot nozawana soba (mountain vegetable soba). Yamakake is grated mountain yam which is white in color with a slimy texture and a mild yam flavor. For many, its texture is an acquired taste. Still it was pretty good but my favorite was the nozawana soba.
After lunch we wandered around and stopped at a local snack store. We bought some yōkan (jellied dessert of agar-agar and red bean paste) which turned out to be really delicious. It was filled with chunky red beans and chestnuts.
We visited the Kozenji Temple and the little known Komagane Municipal Museum in the same compound as Takemura‘s residence. The museum is in a Meiji era (1868 – 1912) building while the residence is a traditional thatched roof building rarely seen today.
Pictured below is the roaring Odagiri River opposite our hotel. The water is very cold and clear.
Shiki View Hotel offers modern and traditional rooms. We opted for the traditional rooms where the decor was minimalist and the furniture at floor level. In the evenings, the kotatsu (low wooden table) and zaisus (chair with no legs) were pushed aside and futons (bedding) spread on the floor.
The highlights of our stay here were the onsen with indoor and outdoor baths and the kaiseki dinner (traditional multi-course dinner). The bath was really relaxing with tubs or pools of different sizes and textures to soak in. It is not unusual to take hour long baths here. Dressed in yukatas (casual summer kimono made of cotton) after a good soak, we were ready to go for the wonderful 12-course kaiseki dinner. Kaiseki is an art form that balances taste, texture, color, and appearance of the dishes presented. This dinner was a delight to the senses and I couldn’t help but admire the food presentation and dinnerware it came in. It was all so aesthetically pleasing and many of the dishes tasted superb.
Shark’s fin eggdrop soup, minced meat and seafood dumpling, seasonal appetizer, and light seasonal fruit sake. 
1. Steaming box with
2. Paper thin slices of pork and mountain vegetables inside served with two dipping sauces.
3. The sashimi was beautifully plated with shiso, fruits, and edible flowers.
4. Grilled iwana
5. Shinshu soba with sauce and condiments in wabi-sabi stoneware.
6. Japanese chicken and eggplant curry in a beautiful metallic bowl and delicate charger.
7. Suimono (clear soup), tsukemono (pickles), and gohan (rice) as a filler.
8. Then came the dessert of a light and refreshing fruit custard and sake which rounded off the meal nicely.
That was a sumptuous dinner indeed!
The hotel we stayed at was by the idyllic Kinogawa.
Even the breakfast was elaborate with a salad, rice, miso soup, four side dishes, pickles, and dessert. Certainly a very good start for the morning.
After breakfast at Komagane, we took the bus to Matsumoto.
Matsumoto Castle is one of the most complete and beautiful castles in Japan, listed as a National Treasure in 1952. It was completed in the mid 16th century and maintains its original wooden interiors and external stonework. It was built on flat land with a lack of natural defenses. For that reason, the castle was built with extraordinarily high, strong stone walls surrounded by a triple moat.
The sixth floor is 72.5 feet above the entrance and commands panoramic views of Matsumoto city and the surrounding countryside. Huge kois (ornamental carp) can be seen swimming in the moat.
After a day of sight seeing, we had yakiniku (grilled meat) for dinner. Yakiniku has its origins in Korea. A variety of raw marinated meats and vegetables were brought to us for cooking on a grill at the table. The food was cooked a few pieces at a time for the duration of the meal. The grilled meats and vegetables were dipped in sauces and eaten with rice. The meal may be served with soup, kimchee, pickled vegetables, and other Korean dishes.
Biren prepared matcha for the evening. Frothy green tea is delicious and good for us.
The next morning, we made a day trip to Narai-juku, a post town on the Nakasendo Highway ruled by the Edo Shogunate between Edo and Kyoto. A historical row of Edo period houses along the street was confirmed as a Cultural Asset in 1978 and visitors from all over Japan come to see these historical buildings.
We stopped at a store selling hoba, glutinous rice cakes with red bean paste filling wrapped in leaves that grow together in a bunch. There were also bundles of leaf-wrapped savory rice cakes. 
We ambled along the street with charming restaurants and stores selling ceramic dishes, pottery, lacquer ware, wood ware, and Hinoki cypress bento boxes. At noon we stopped at a soba shop for bowls of tanuki soba (“raccoon-dog” soba) topped with deep fried vegetable tempura. We had sakura cha (cherry blossom tea) which had a slightly salty taste with a cherry blossom in the cup.
Soon it was time to get back to Matsumoto. We left Matsumoto the next morning for Yokohama.
Near Yokohama, we visited the naval base city of Yokosuka where HIJMS Mikasa is preserved as a museum ship. She is one of the “Three Great Historical Warships of the World”, together with Victory in Portsmouth, UK, and Constitution in Boston, USA. She served as the flagship of Admiral Tōgō during the Battle of the Yellow Sea on August 10 1904, and the Battle of Tsushima Straits on May 27 1905 during the Russo-Japanese War.
We had Japanese curry ramen for lunch at Yokosuka. This was a very tasty bowl of ramen and I really enjoyed it. I also like the very practical design of the spoon. It was able to rest very nicely on the lip of the bowl without slipping into the soup.
Yokohama’s night skyline along the waterfront with impressive buildings at the Minato Mirai 21 district. The Landmark Tower, the tallest building in Japan is located here. On the 69th floor is the Sky Garden Observatory where one can enjoy a 360-degree view of the city, and on clear days Mount Fuji. The Cosmo World amusement park is spread out along the waterfront on the man made island of the Shinko District. The most recognizable feature of the island is the Cosmo Clock 21. It is fantastically illuminated at night and changes color every 15 minutes.
It was here that I contacted The Lacquer Spoon who is based in Tokyo. Unfortunately we were unable to meet as Yokohama was some distance from Tokyo and I was already preparing to return to home. Perhaps we could meet in another visit but we did manage to e-chat and she suggested that we visit Yokohama Chinatown. We had to check it out.
Yokohama Chūkagai (Yokohama Chinatown) is the largest Chinatown in Asia and a major tourist attraction. Yokohama was the first port opened to international trade in 1859 when Japan ended its national seclusion and many Chinese traders came and settled there. Today, there are over 500 restaurants, food stands, tea shops, handicraft, and grocery stores in this Chinatown. The main attraction is the cuisine with a wide array of Chinese dishes many of which have been uniquely Japanized to a certain degree.
Ramen noodles and fried rice set with salad, appetizer, side dishes, condiments, and a dessert (not shown) served on a large tray. Lovely presentation!
Finally it was time to go home. We had a great vacation and wonderful memories.
Thank you for visiting. I hope you have enjoyed reading about our trip as we have enjoyed sharing it with you. If you missed the first two parts, you can check it out here: Malaysian Food Journal and Taste of Singapore.
Have a wonderful day!
Mina Joshi says
July 11, 2010 at 9:29 pmYou vertainly had a great holiday. I Loved reading about your Japan trip very much. You were certainly able to enjoy all the Japanese dishes. Some lovely photos too!!
lequan@luvtoeat says
July 11, 2010 at 10:52 pmLooks like you guys had a good stay in Japan. Beautiful pictures yet again Biren. I've never been to Japan but would love to explore once my kiddies get a little older. Hope you're having a great weekend Biren!
All those dishes look beautifully and elegantly presented. The sashimi in Japan must be so fresh and tasty. That spoon design is brilliant, I love it! I always have troubles keeping my spoon from sliding into my soup while I'm tending to my children. This spoon would solve that problem. I've never seen those types of spoons sold here.
Patty Price says
July 11, 2010 at 11:03 pmI am so impressed with all your posts on this incredible trip, I enjoyed them so much, this last one on japan is beautifully done! I'm ready to book my trip, are you taking a group of food bloggers to Asia next year? If you are I'm in:-) Thanks Biren, I just loved it!
maddiebud says
July 12, 2010 at 12:17 amWow Biren! Your photos are amazing and your trip looks like it was equally as amazing. I'm going to need to go back and read parts one and two now. Glad you had a nice trip!
Sharon says
July 12, 2010 at 12:29 amJapan is a nice country to visit…
anncoo says
July 12, 2010 at 12:52 amBiren, Thanks for sharing your trip in Japan. Your amazing pictures tell it all and I must visit Yokohama on my next trip to Japan. Did you get that cute spoon on your way back? ;DD
premalatha says
July 12, 2010 at 1:01 amThanks for sharing ur experience dear,Got nice info from u…
jillyann says
July 12, 2010 at 1:15 amHow beautiful and exciting! I love what a production meals are in Japan…every meal is stunning. Your pictures are lovely and it looks as though you had a marvelous holiday. We are glad that you are safely back home!
dragonlife says
July 12, 2010 at 1:31 amDear Biren!
Very well written indeed!
You will make a lot of people happy with such good information and pics!
Matsumoto and Yokohama are very near my place, Shizuoka!
take good care!
Robert-Gilles
penny aka jeroxie says
July 12, 2010 at 2:08 amenvious! I will love to go to japan again~
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:11 amThanks Mina! I am glad you enjoyed reading the post. I am glad to have the opportunity to enjoy the delicious food.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:21 amWe had a great time in Japan. The places we visited were beautiful with lots of things to see and do. Can't wait to visit again.
We love Japanese food and enjoyed every meal we had there. Yes, the fish is really fresh. Probably the freshest and best (I think) sashimi and sushi is found in Tokyo near the Tsukiji Market area. Tsukiji is quite a destination if you don't mind a wet market.
Yes, the spoon design is brilliant! I only saw those spoons at that restaurant. I've not seen it anywhere else.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:24 amThanks Patty! Glad you enjoyed my vacation posts. There is lots to see and do in Japan. They have the ultra modern fast paces cities and the beautiful, idyllic countryside. Can't wait for my next visit.
It would be interesting to go with a group of food bloggers 🙂
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:25 amThanks maddiebud! We had a great trip 🙂
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:25 amThere is just so much to see and do in Japan.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:28 amYou can make Yokohama your base and then visit the surrounding cities. Kamakura is one that you may want to check out.
I only saw that spoon at the restaurant. I would have bought a few home if I had a chance.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:30 amThanks for visiting and for your kind comments 🙂
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:33 amYes Jillyann, almost every meal is stunning. They take so much care and trouble to put the dishes together. Thank you for your kind words.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:37 amHi Robert! Thanks for your kind words 🙂 We will surely visit Shizuoka one of these days. I would love to see the tea fields and of course Mt Fuji!
Thanks so much for visiting.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:37 amJapan is wonderful 🙂
the lacquer spoon says
July 12, 2010 at 4:16 amBiren, welcome to Japan finally and glad to know your culinary journey started with Kitsune Udon!! It was also nice for you to visit many local and scenic places away from bustling Tokyo, where everything is mixed up. As you explained, Japanese food is diverse: some are very traditional and others are inspired by other Asian/ foreign cultures. Thank you so much for introducing your wonderful text and photos on Japan, and I'm sure they convey your excitement beautifully :))
Tokyo is still stuck in the rainy season, raining heavily today. Hope you'll be back to Japan to explore more and have a toast for our meeting :))
Best,
Spoon xx
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 5:12 amHi Spoon,
Thank you for your warm welcome 🙂 Kitsune udon is one of my favorite things and I had to have a good start to my stay in Japan. I enjoy the big cities but I love to go off the beaten track to experience the local culture. We had a wonderful stay at Komagane and Matsumoto. Narai-juku was a real find and I wish we could have spent more time there.
I can't wait for my next trip back to Japan. Hopefully I can visit in the fall (autumn) and see the beautiful maples changing color. Would love to meet up with you 🙂
Biren
MaryMoh says
July 12, 2010 at 9:45 amWhat a beautiful post….beautiful place and awesome food! I love it all. Best of all….you in your kimono preparing tea!! 😀 Japan is one place I would love to visit one day.
A SPICY PERSPECTIVE says
July 12, 2010 at 1:43 pmLove, love , love your vacation posts! Next time, I'm curling up in your suitcase to come along!
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:06 pmAww…Mary, you are sweet! Thank you for your compliments. I really enjoy Japan – the food, place, and culture.
rotinrice says
July 12, 2010 at 2:07 pmThank you, its good to know you enjoyed the posts. We had a good trip. It was fun.
pigpigscorner says
July 12, 2010 at 2:32 pmJapan is such a beautiful place! Would love to visit someday!
tigerfish says
July 12, 2010 at 4:31 pmHope you enjoyed your trip 🙂
Angie's Recipes says
July 12, 2010 at 4:37 pmI love all these bowls and dishes…so pretty!
Devaki says
July 12, 2010 at 6:53 pmDear Biren – How wonderful! I know that my hubby would be drolling if he were reading this post right now as was I. The architecture, the sights, the food the ambience – all so wonderful.
I am glad to enjoy this journey thanks to your post for now – till in person one day 🙂 Excellent post & glad you had an unforgettable vacation 🙂
Ciao, Devaki @ weavethousandflavors
IJust LoveMyApron says
July 12, 2010 at 8:08 pmOh I thought you were back haha. This is live from Japan, Biren! Great photos. It makes me want to go back to visit Japan again
sweetlife says
July 13, 2010 at 12:16 amBiren how wonderful to travel with you in your post, I love all the pics I have always wanted to visit Japan, great eats, so many fab dishes…
sweetlife
Mary says
July 13, 2010 at 12:56 amYour photos are the next best thing to being there. The scenery and food alllook gorgeous. I hope you are having a great day. Blessings…Mary
Lazaro says
July 13, 2010 at 2:37 amFantastic. Amazing photos. What a great trip. Congrats.
Looks like some good eating…
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 2:49 amJapan is a beautiful place to visit. We really enjoyed our stay 🙂
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 2:49 amWe had a good trip 🙂
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 2:53 amYes, the bowls and dishes are very pretty. They even have those made of wood which are absolutely gorgeous.
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 2:57 amThanks Devaki! We had a great time and it is a little hard now to get back to things as usual, but I know we must. Glad you enjoyed the post 🙂
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 2:59 amOh Tanantha…we are back home. I certainly won't mind visiting Japan again 🙂
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 3:00 amThanks Sweetlife! I am glad you enjoyed the post. It is good to record and recount the vacation.
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 3:01 amThanks Mary! I am really glad the pictures turned out well.
rotinrice says
July 13, 2010 at 3:02 amThanks Lazaro! The food was awesome all the way from Malaysia to Japan 🙂
denise fletcher says
July 13, 2010 at 4:22 amYou're right Biren , the Japanese do love to make animal references in their cuisine! And they also have their version of "chang"? LOL I love any kind of Japanese soup noodles and I am so very jealous of your lovely Japanese holiday! I wonder when I will be able to taste tea made personally by Biren? 😉
Joanne says
July 13, 2010 at 12:37 pmSo many treats and good food! I feel like I'm right there with you.
sarah says
July 13, 2010 at 3:00 pmFrom the pics i can see that you had a wonderful vacation….awesome pics…
maddiebud says
July 13, 2010 at 5:16 pmBiren, I'm back again (somehow I replied at maddiebud the first time I was here)! I wanted to let you know that I gave you a shout out over at my blog. Be sure to stop by!
love2cook says
July 14, 2010 at 2:58 amWOW, really enjoyed ur post! My hubby been around the world, but me upto Singapore only. Hahahaha! Nice, catchy pics!
psst…Its shows Banana Split at Ur link in my page…but I don't see it here…;)
Ma What's For dinner says
July 14, 2010 at 12:06 pmSeriously, I'm so insanely jealous of your food adventure right now!!! If I didn't have 3 little kids I'd be packing my suitcase right this second!
Lots of yummy love,
Alex aka Ma, What's For Dinner ” target=”_blank”>http://www.mawhats4dinner.com
Cristina TeenieCakes says
July 14, 2010 at 2:52 pmBiren – you took so many lovely photos…you gotta frame some of these. Your capture of spectacular Matsumto Castle and scenery looks so beautiful. What a great experience! Sounds like you & your family had a memorable and fun-filled holiday. You look adorable in your lilac/pink kimono. 🙂
Pam says
July 14, 2010 at 4:09 pmWhat a great trip! the food looks delicious and the hotel sounds great. Thanks for the tour!
Chef Dennis says
July 14, 2010 at 7:13 pmthank you so much for taking us along on your trip…..I have always wanted to see Japan..you made me feel like I was there with you!
Magic of Spice says
July 16, 2010 at 9:03 amOh, what a wonderful post and I am sure a fantastic trip:)
Magic of Spice says
August 18, 2010 at 2:48 amOh Biren, this is all so wonderful…so glad you had such a wonderful trip, and now taking us along 🙂 Japan is at the top of my list of places to visit…
Nate @ House of Annie says
October 6, 2010 at 9:14 pmOh, you really make me miss Japan, all over again!
Biren says
October 7, 2010 at 8:49 amJapan is a great place to visit – lovely scenery, awesome food, and great shopping. Fall is a really nice time to visit with the momijis in full splendor 😉